The Cashmere Grading System: Understanding Grade A, B, and C

Knowledge Mar 28 2026
SELVANE editorial

Cashmere, often revered for its unparalleled softness and warmth, is not a monolithic material. Its quality varies significantly, a nuance often overlooked by consumers. Understanding the cashmere grading system—specifically Grades A, B, and C—is fundamental for anyone seeking truly investment-grade pieces. This knowledge empowers you to discern the genuine article from lesser imitations, ensuring your apparel stands the test of time and retains its exceptional characteristics.

Decoding Cashmere's Foundation: Fiber Diameter and Length

The core of cashmere quality lies in two critical factors: fiber diameter (micron count) and fiber length (staple length). These attributes are direct indicators of the raw material's inherent quality and, consequently, the finished product's performance. Cashmere fibers are harvested from the undercoat of Cashmere goats, primarily found in regions with extreme temperature fluctuations, such as Mongolia, China, and Iran. The harsh climate encourages the goats to grow an incredibly fine and insulating undercoat.

Fiber Diameter (Micron Count): This refers to the thickness of individual cashmere fibers, measured in microns. The lower the micron count, the finer the fiber. Grade A cashmere typically boasts a micron count below 18.5, often ranging from 14 to 16.5 microns. Finer fibers result in a softer hand-feel and a more refined drape. Coarser fibers, conversely, feel less soft and can be more prone to pilling. This precision in fiber selection is a hallmark of intellectual artistry, where the raw material dictates the potential for tectonic craft.

Fiber Length (Staple Length): This measures the length of individual cashmere fibers. Longer fibers, typically 34mm and above, are crucial for durability and resistance to pilling. They allow for tighter spinning, creating a stronger yarn that is less likely to break or shed. Shorter fibers, while still soft, tend to pill more readily and produce garments with a shorter lifespan. A considered approach to material selection prioritizes both fineness and length to ensure a truly lasting garment.

The Tiers of Quality: Grade A, B, and C Defined

The informal grading system for cashmere provides a useful framework for understanding quality distinctions, though it's important to note that these are not official, universally regulated standards but rather industry benchmarks.

  • Grade A Cashmere

    This is the pinnacle of cashmere quality. Grade A fibers are characterized by their extremely fine diameter (typically 14-16.5 microns) and long staple length (34mm and above). These fibers are meticulously sorted, resulting in a yarn that is incredibly soft, lightweight, and exceptionally durable. Garments crafted from Grade A cashmere exhibit superior drape, resistance to pilling, and remarkable warmth-to-weight ratio. This is the material chosen by SELVANE for its investment-grade pieces, reflecting our commitment to enduring quality and refined aesthetics. The meticulous processing of Grade A cashmere exemplifies tectonic craft, transforming raw fiber into an object of lasting value.

  • Grade B Cashmere

    Falling between Grade A and Grade C, Grade B cashmere is still a good quality material, but with slightly thicker fibers and shorter staple lengths than Grade A. Its micron count typically ranges from 17-19 microns, and staple lengths are usually between 28-34mm. While softer than regular wool, Grade B cashmere may not offer the same ethereal softness or longevity as Grade A. It can be more prone to pilling over time and may feel slightly less smooth against the skin. Many commercially available cashmere items fall into this category, offering a balance of softness and affordability.

  • Grade C Cashmere

    Grade C represents the lowest tier of cashmere quality. It is characterized by thicker fibers (often 20 microns and above) and significantly shorter staple lengths (below 28mm). This grade often includes a higher percentage of coarser guard hairs, which are not true cashmere. While still marketed as "cashmere," garments made from Grade C material will feel noticeably rougher, pill extensively, and lack the inherent durability and warmth associated with higher grades. They often appear less substantial and wear out quickly, failing to deliver the considered value expected from cashmere.

Navigating Your Investment: Making Informed Choices with SELVANE

Understanding the nuances of cashmere grading is not merely academic; it's a practical guide for making informed purchasing decisions. When investing in cashmere, consider not just the initial feel but also the long-term performance and value. A lower price point often signifies a compromise in fiber quality, leading to garments that quickly lose their appeal.

At SELVANE, our dedication to intellectual artistry means we meticulously source only the finest Grade A cashmere. This commitment ensures that every piece we offer is not just a garment, but an investment-grade creation designed to transcend seasonal trends and provide years of refined comfort. We believe in transparency and empowering our clientele with the knowledge to appreciate the true value embedded in considered materials and tectonic craft. By prioritizing fiber integrity, we deliver apparel that embodies both sophisticated aesthetics and exceptional resilience, a testament to our unwavering standards.

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