How to Read a Garment Label: Decoding Fiber Content and Care Symbols

Meta Description: A comprehensive guide to understanding garment labels. Cover fiber content percentages, international care symbols (ASTM/ISO), country of origin implications, and what 'dry clean only' really means for natural fibers.

The Anatomy of a Garment Label: More Than Just a Tag

A garment’s label is its passport, a small but vital document stitched into its seams. It tells a story of the garment’s origins, its material composition, and the care it requires to maintain its integrity and longevity. For the discerning individual, understanding this information is not merely a matter of laundry; it is an integral part of appreciating the garment itself. A label provides the necessary information to care for the garment properly, preserving its shape, texture, and color over time. By following the care instructions, you can extend the life of your clothing and protect your investment. It is a simple yet crucial step in building a lasting and sustainable wardrobe.

Beyond the basics of fiber content and care instructions, a garment label can also provide other valuable information. The brand name and logo, for example, are a mark of quality and a promise of a certain standard of craftsmanship. The size of the garment is, of course, essential for a proper fit. And, as we will explore in more detail later, the country of origin can offer insights into the garment’s journey from raw materials to finished product. In some cases, you may also find a Registered Identification Number (RN) or a Wool Products Labeling (WPL) number, which can be used to identify the manufacturer or importer of the garment. Taken together, these elements provide a comprehensive picture of the garment, allowing you to make informed decisions and care for your clothing in the best possible way.

Fiber Content: What Your Clothes are Really Made Of

The fiber content section of a garment label is a declaration of its material makeup. It lists the generic names of the fibers present in the garment, along with their corresponding percentages by weight. In the United States, the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act requires that most textile products feature a label that discloses this information [1]. This allows consumers to make informed decisions based on their preferences for certain materials, whether for reasons of comfort, performance, or ethical considerations.

For example, a label might read “90% Wool, 10% Cashmere.” This indicates that the garment is primarily composed of wool, with a smaller amount of cashmere blended in for added softness. Understanding the properties of different fibers is key to interpreting this information. Natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk have different characteristics than synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon. A blend of fibers can be used to achieve a desired combination of qualities, such as the durability of polyester with the breathability of cotton. It is worth noting that the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) allows for a 3% tolerance for fiber content claims. This means that a garment labeled as 100% cotton could, in fact, contain up to 3% of another fiber.

Decoding the Language of Care: A Guide to International Symbols

Care labels often use a system of symbols to convey washing, drying, ironing, and cleaning instructions. These symbols are designed to be universally understood, transcending language barriers. The two most common systems are the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) [2]. While similar, there are subtle differences between the two. For example, the ASTM symbols for water temperature are represented by dots, while the ISO symbols use numbers within the washtub symbol.

Care Symbol Decoder Table

Symbol	ASTM Meaning	ISO Meaning
Washing
	Machine Wash	Machine Wash
	Machine Wash, Normal Cycle	Machine Wash, Normal Cycle
	Machine Wash, Permanent Press	Machine Wash, Permanent Press
	Machine Wash, Gentle Cycle	Machine Wash, Gentle Cycle
	Hand Wash	Hand Wash
	Do Not Wash	Do Not Wash
Drying
	Tumble Dry	Tumble Dry
	Tumble Dry, Normal	Tumble Dry, Normal
	Tumble Dry, Permanent Press	Tumble Dry, Permanent Press
	Tumble Dry, Gentle	Tumble Dry, Gentle
	Do Not Tumble Dry	Do Not Tumble Dry
Ironing
	Iron	Iron
	Iron, Low Heat	Iron, Low Heat
	Iron, Medium Heat	Iron, Medium Heat
	Iron, High Heat	Iron, High Heat
	Do Not Iron	Do Not Iron
Dry Cleaning
	Dry Clean	Dry Clean
	Dry Clean, Any Solvent	Dry Clean, Any Solvent
	Dry Clean, Petroleum Solvent Only	Dry Clean, Petroleum Solvent Only
	Do Not Dry Clean	Do Not Dry Clean

'Dry Clean Only': A Closer Look at Professional Cleaning

The phrase “Dry Clean Only” can be intimidating, but it is an important instruction to heed, especially for garments made from delicate natural fibers. Dry cleaning is a process that uses a chemical solvent to clean clothes instead of water. This is particularly important for materials like silk, wool, and cashmere, which can be damaged by the agitation and heat of a traditional washing machine. The solvent is able to remove dirt and stains without causing the fibers to shrink, stretch, or lose their shape.

However, not all “Dry Clean Only” garments are created equal. Some garments may be labeled as such as a precautionary measure by the manufacturer. For those with a deep understanding of textiles, it is sometimes possible to hand wash a “Dry Clean Only” garment with a gentle, pH-neutral detergent. This should be done with extreme care, and only after considering the specific fiber content and construction of the garment. When in doubt, it is always best to entrust your delicate garments to a professional dry cleaner. The most common dry cleaning solvent is perchloroethylene, also known as “perc.” While effective, perc is a volatile organic compound (VOC) and has been linked to health and environmental concerns. As a result, many dry cleaners are now offering alternative, more environmentally friendly cleaning methods, such as liquid carbon dioxide or silicone-based solvents.

Country of Origin: What a Label Tells You About a Garment's Journey

The country of origin label indicates where a garment was manufactured. This information can be a point of interest for those who are curious about the global supply chain and the journey their clothes have taken. The regulations for country of origin labeling vary from country to country. In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission requires that most clothing and textile products have a label that clearly states the country where the product was processed or manufactured [3].

For some, the country of origin can be an indicator of quality or craftsmanship. Certain countries have a long-standing reputation for producing high-quality textiles and garments. For others, the country of origin is a factor in making more conscious purchasing decisions, whether that means supporting local manufacturing or avoiding products from countries with poor labor practices. Regardless of the motivation, the country of origin label provides a small but significant piece of the puzzle in understanding the story behind a garment. It is important to note that the “Made in” label can sometimes be misleading. For example, a garment may be assembled in one country from materials that were produced in another. In such cases, the label may only reflect the country of assembly, not the full story of the garment’s origins.

RN and WPL Numbers: A Hidden Key to a Garment's Past

In addition to the more common information found on a garment label, you may also come across a Registered Identification Number (RN) or a Wool Products Labeling (WPL) number. These numbers are issued by the Federal Trade Commission to U.S. businesses that manufacture, import, or sell textile, wool, or fur products. The RN and WPL numbers can be used to identify the company responsible for the garment, even if the brand name is not familiar. This can be particularly useful for vintage or second-hand clothing, as it allows you to research the history of the garment and the company that made it. You can look up RN and WPL numbers on the FTC’s website to find the name and address of the company associated with the number.

FAQ

What does it mean if a garment label has a circle with a letter inside?

A circle on a care label indicates that the garment should be dry cleaned. The letter inside the circle provides instructions for the dry cleaner, indicating the type of solvent that should be used. “A” means any solvent can be used, “P” means petroleum solvent only, and “F” means flammable solvent.

Can I wash a garment that says “Dry Clean Only”?

While it is generally recommended to follow the care instructions on the label, it is sometimes possible to hand wash a “Dry Clean Only” garment. This should only be done with extreme care, using a gentle detergent and cool water. It is important to consider the fiber content and construction of the garment before attempting to hand wash it. When in doubt, it is always best to err on the side of caution and take the garment to a professional dry cleaner.

Why are there two different sets of care symbols?

There are two main systems for care symbols: the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). While they are similar, there are some minor differences between the two systems. The ASTM system is primarily used in the United States, while the ISO system is more common in Europe and other parts of the world. Many manufacturers now use a combination of both systems on their labels to ensure that their care instructions are understood globally.

What is the difference between an RN and a WPL number?

An RN (Registered Identification Number) and a WPL (Wool Products Labeling) number are both issued by the Federal Trade Commission to identify the manufacturer, importer, or seller of a textile product. The WPL numbers were issued to wool product manufacturers prior to 1959, while the RN numbers have been issued since then. Both numbers serve the same purpose and can be used to look up the company associated with the garment.

Does the country of origin really matter?

The significance of the country of origin is a personal matter. For some, it is a mark of quality and craftsmanship. For others, it is a way to make more conscious and ethical purchasing decisions. Whatever your perspective, the country of origin label provides a valuable piece of information that can help you to better understand the story behind your clothes.

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References

[1] Federal Trade Commission. (n.d.). Textile Fiber Rule. Retrieved from https://www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/rules/textile-fiber-rule

[2] International Organization for Standardization. (2012). ISO 3758:2012 - Textiles — Care labelling code using symbols. Retrieved from https://www.iso.org/standard/42918.html

[3] Federal Trade Commission. (n.d.). Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts. Retrieved from https://www.ftc.gov/business-guidance/resources/threading-your-way-through-labeling-requirements-under-textile-wool-acts