Cashmere Quality: Beyond the Touch Test

How to Tell Good Cashmere from Bad: The Touch Test Is Not Enough

Distinguishing high-quality cashmere from its inferior counterparts requires an assessment beyond simple hand-feel. While softness is a characteristic of cashmere, it is not the sole indicator of quality. True quality is determined by a combination of factors, primarily fiber diameter (micron count), fiber length, and the percentage of coarse guard hairs present in the yarn. A lower micron count, longer fiber length, and minimal guard hair content are the definitive markers of superior cashmere.

The Significance of Fiber Diameter (Micron Count)

Cashmere quality is graded based on the diameter of the individual fibers, measured in microns (μm). The lower the micron count, the finer, softer, and more valuable the cashmere. The industry generally classifies cashmere into three grades:

• Grade A: The highest quality, with a micron count typically between 14 and 15.5. The fibers are the longest, resulting in a durable and pill-resistant fabric.
• Grade B: A medium-grade cashmere with a micron count ranging from 16 to 18.
• Grade C: The lowest quality, with a micron count of around 19 and higher. This grade is more prone to pilling and has a coarser feel.

For context, the highest-grade cashmere, often referred to as "baby cashmere," can have a micron count as low as 12.5 to 13. To the naked eye, a single micron is imperceptible, but in a finished garment, the difference between a 14-micron and a 19-micron fiber is substantial in terms of softness and durability.

Fiber Length and Its Impact on Durability and Pilling

While fiber diameter is crucial for softness, fiber length is the primary determinant of a cashmere garment's durability and resistance to pilling. Pilling, the formation of small fiber balls on the surface of a fabric, is a natural process for all-natural fibers, but it is exacerbated by short fiber lengths. Longer fibers, ideally over 30mm, can be twisted together more securely to create a stronger yarn. This secure twist minimizes the number of loose fiber ends on the surface, which are the primary cause of pilling.

When cashmere fibers are short, they are more likely to become tangled and form pills with abrasion. While a gentle de-pilling with a cashmere comb is a normal part of maintenance, excessive pilling is a sign of inferior quality cashmere made from shorter, less expensive fibers.

The Role of Guard Hairs and De-hairing

Cashmere goats have a double fleece, consisting of a fine, soft undercoat and a coarse outer coat of guard hairs. The quality of the final cashmere product is heavily dependent on the efficiency of the de-hairing process, which separates the valuable fine fibers from the coarse guard hairs. The presence of a significant amount of guard hair in a cashmere garment will result in a prickly, itchy feel against the skin.

High-quality cashmere will have a minimal amount of guard hair, typically less than 0.5%. The de-hairing process is meticulous and labor-intensive, which contributes to the higher cost of premium cashmere. A garment with a high percentage of guard hairs is a clear indicator of a lower-quality product.

Origin and Provenance

While the processing of cashmere is critical, the origin of the raw fiber also plays a role in its quality. The finest cashmere is typically sourced from regions with harsh, cold climates, such as Inner Mongolia, which is widely regarded as the premier region for cashmere production. The goats in these regions grow a particularly fine and long undercoat to survive the extreme temperatures. While cashmere is produced in other regions as well, the quality can vary significantly.

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FAQs

Is pilling a sign of bad cashmere?

Pilling is a natural characteristic of cashmere, but excessive pilling can be an indicator of lower quality. Cashmere made from shorter fibers is more prone to pilling. While all cashmere will pill to some extent, high-quality cashmere with long fibers will pill less and the pills will be easier to remove.

Why does some cashmere feel softer than others?

The softness of cashmere is primarily determined by the diameter of the fibers, measured in microns. The lower the micron count, the finer and softer the cashmere. Grade A cashmere, with a micron count of 14-15.5, will feel significantly softer than Grade C cashmere, which has a micron count of 19 or higher.

Can I really not trust the touch test?

While the touch test can give you a general sense of softness, it is not a reliable indicator of overall quality. Some manufacturers use softeners and finishing techniques to make lower-quality cashmere feel softer to the touch in the store. However, this softness is often temporary and will diminish after a few washes. A more reliable assessment of quality involves considering the factors of fiber diameter, length, and the absence of guard hairs.

Yarn Construction: Ply and Twist

The construction of the yarn itself is a critical, yet often overlooked, aspect of cashmere quality. Two key factors in yarn construction are ply and twist.

Ply refers to the number of individual cashmere strands twisted together to create a single, stronger yarn. A 2-ply yarn, for example, is made by twisting two strands of cashmere together. This process creates a more durable and resilient yarn than a single-ply yarn. While a higher ply count can contribute to a garment's warmth and durability, it is not a direct indicator of quality. A 2-ply garment made from Grade A cashmere will be superior to a 4-ply garment made from Grade C cashmere.

Twist refers to the number of turns per inch in the yarn. A higher twist can create a stronger, more durable yarn, but it can also make the fabric feel less soft. The ideal twist is a balance between strength and softness, and it is often determined by the intended use of the garment. A tightly twisted yarn might be used for a durable outerwear piece, while a loosely twisted yarn would be more suitable for a soft, delicate scarf.

The Impact of Dyeing on Cashmere Quality

The dyeing process can have a significant impact on the quality and feel of cashmere. The natural color of cashmere is typically white, grey, or brown. To achieve a wide range of colors, the fibers must be dyed. However, the dyeing process, particularly when using harsh chemicals and high temperatures, can damage the delicate cashmere fibers.

High-temperature dyeing can strip the fibers of their natural moisture, making them brittle and less soft. It can also cause the scales on the surface of the fibers to become more pronounced, leading to a coarser feel. Low-temperature dyeing processes are gentler on the fibers and help to preserve their natural softness and integrity. When possible, choosing cashmere in its natural, undyed state or in lighter shades is a good way to ensure that the fibers have not been subjected to harsh dyeing processes.

Understanding Cashmere Blends

To make cashmere more affordable, it is often blended with other fibers, such as wool, silk, or synthetic materials. While there is nothing inherently wrong with cashmere blends, it is important to understand what you are buying. According to the U.S. Wool Products Labeling Act, a product can only be labeled as "100% Cashmere" or "All Cashmere" if it contains only cashmere fibers.

If a product is a blend, the label must state the percentage of each fiber present. For example, a label might read "80% Wool, 20% Cashmere." Be wary of products that are labeled simply as "cashmere" without any indication of the percentage. These products may contain only a small amount of cashmere, blended with a majority of less expensive fibers.

Testing and Certification

While there is no single, universally recognized certification for cashmere quality, there are independent organizations that test and certify the quality of cashmere products. The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI) is one such organization that sets standards for the industry. The CCMI trademark is a symbol of quality and can provide some assurance that a product is made from genuine, high-quality cashmere.

Ultimately, the best way to ensure that you are buying a high-quality cashmere garment is to buy from a reputable brand that is transparent about its sourcing and manufacturing processes. A brand that is confident in the quality of its products will be happy to provide you with information about the fiber diameter, length, and origin of its cashmere.

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