Climate Change and Cashmere: The Future of a Luxury Fiber

The intricate origins of cashmere, woven into Central Asia's delicate ecosystems, now face the profound realities of a changing climate.

The Shifting Landscapes of Central Asia

The story of cashmere begins in the vast, remote grasslands of Central Asia, particularly in Mongolia, a region that produces a significant portion of the world's supply. For centuries, nomadic herders have raised cashmere goats in this unique and challenging environment. However, this delicate ecosystem is now under threat. A combination of climate change and overgrazing is leading to widespread desertification. Temperatures in Mongolia have risen by more than 2 degrees Celsius over the past 70 years, a rate higher than the global average. This warming trend, coupled with a decrease in rainfall, is transforming once-lush pastures into arid desert. The United Nations has warned that as much as 90% of Mongolia is at risk of desertification, a stark reality that threatens the very foundation of the cashmere industry.

The problem is exacerbated by the dramatic increase in the number of cashmere goats. Driven by a growing global demand for cashmere, the goat population in Mongolia has swelled from 5 million in 1990 to over 27 million today. Unlike sheep, goats are known to pull up and eat the roots of grasses, preventing regrowth and accelerating soil erosion. This overgrazing, combined with the effects of climate change, has created a vicious cycle of environmental degradation that is reshaping the landscapes of Central Asia and jeopardizing the future of cashmere production.

The Ripple Effect on Herder Communities

For the nomadic herders of Central Asia, cashmere is more than just a commodity; it is a way of life. For many, the income from selling raw cashmere accounts for up to 80% of their annual earnings, providing the means to send their children to school, purchase food, and maintain their traditional lifestyle. However, the same forces that are degrading the land are also squeezing the livelihoods of these herders. The volatile prices of raw cashmere on the international market, coupled with the increasing frequency of harsh winters, known as 'dzuds', create a precarious existence. In response to this uncertainty, many herders feel compelled to increase the size of their flocks, further contributing to the problem of overgrazing.

The changing climate also presents a direct threat to the health and well-being of the goat herds. The lack of adequate pastureland means that herders must spend more money on supplemental fodder to feed their animals. This additional expense cuts into their already thin profit margins, making it increasingly difficult to sustain their livelihoods. As one herder from the Dornod province of Mongolia lamented, "When I was a child, I vividly remember the grasses would grow taller, and we would receive more rain." Today, the reality is starkly different, and many herders fear for the long-term future of their industry and their way of life.

A Tangible Impact on Fiber Quality

The effects of climate change are not only being felt on the ground in Central Asia, but also in the very fibers of the cashmere itself. The unique softness and warmth of cashmere are a direct result of the harsh, cold winters that the goats endure. In response to the cold, the goats grow a fine, downy undercoat, which is then harvested in the spring. However, as winters become warmer, the goats produce a lower quality fleece with fewer of the prized, ultra-fine fibers. This decline in quality has a direct impact on the value of the raw cashmere, further eroding the income of the herders.

The changing climate also affects the overall health of the goats, which in turn impacts the quality of their fleece. The degradation of pastureland and the lack of natural forage can lead to malnutrition and other health problems, resulting in a coarser, less desirable fiber. For a considered material that is defined by its exceptional softness and fineness, this decline in quality poses a significant threat to the integrity of the cashmere industry. To learn more about the different types of materials used in our collections, please visit our materials page.

The Industry's Response: A Quest for Sustainability

In response to these mounting challenges, a growing movement within the fashion industry is seeking to promote a more sustainable and ethical cashmere supply chain. Recognizing that the future of cashmere depends on the health of the environment and the well-being of the herders, various initiatives are being explored to mitigate the negative impacts of cashmere production. One of the most promising approaches is the promotion of sustainable grazing practices. Research from ScienceDirect suggests that limiting the number of goats to fewer than 10 per hectare in areas with sufficient rainfall can help to preserve grassland biomass and biodiversity. By managing herd sizes and rotating grazing areas, it is possible to reduce the pressure on the land and allow it to recover.

Another key area of focus is improving the traceability of the cashmere supply chain. By using technologies such as blockchain, it is possible to track the journey of the cashmere from the individual herder to the finished garment, ensuring that it has been sourced in an environmentally and socially responsible manner. This transparency not only empowers consumers to make more informed choices, but also provides a financial incentive for herders to adopt more sustainable practices. Furthermore, there is a growing effort to increase in-country processing of raw cashmere. By washing, scouring, and de-hairing the cashmere in Mongolia, it is possible to add more value to the product locally, increasing the income of the herders and reducing the industry's reliance on foreign processing facilities. Explore our collection of outerwear and knitwear to experience the beauty of responsibly sourced cashmere.

What makes cashmere so vulnerable to climate change?

Cashmere's vulnerability to climate change stems from its reliance on a very specific set of environmental conditions. The fine, downy undercoat that makes cashmere so prized is a direct result of the cold, harsh winters in the regions where the goats are raised. As global temperatures rise and winters become milder, the goats produce a lower quality fleece with fewer of the ultra-fine fibers that define considered cashmere. Additionally, the degradation of pastureland due to climate change and overgrazing affects the health of the goats, which in turn impacts the quality of their fleece.

How can consumers support a more sustainable cashmere industry?

Consumers can play a crucial role in promoting a more sustainable cashmere industry by making informed purchasing decisions. Look for brands that are transparent about their sourcing practices and are committed to working with suppliers who adhere to sustainable and ethical standards. By choosing to support brands that are actively engaged in promoting sustainable grazing practices, fair trade, and in-country processing, consumers can help to create a market for responsibly sourced cashmere. Additionally, investing in high-quality, timeless pieces that are made to last can help to reduce the overall environmental impact of the fashion industry.

Is 'sustainable cashmere' a realistic goal?

While the challenges are significant, a more sustainable cashmere industry is not only a realistic goal, but a necessary one. The key lies in a multi-faceted approach that addresses the environmental, social, and economic dimensions of the problem. This includes promoting sustainable grazing practices, improving traceability and transparency in the supply chain, and empowering herder communities to become active stewards of their land. By working together, brands, consumers, and herders can help to ensure that this precious fiber has a future that is as beautiful and enduring as the landscapes from which it comes.

At SELVANE, we believe that true considered is about more than just beautiful design; it is about a deep and abiding respect for the materials we use and the people who create them. As we continue to navigate the complexities of a changing world, we remain committed to sourcing the finest materials in a way that is both ethical and sustainable. We invite you to explore our collections and experience the Intellectual Artistry of our thoughtfully crafted garments.

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