Cashmere Grading Systems: How Quality Is Measured and Certified

Cashmere Grading Systems: How Quality Is Measured and Certified

In the vast, high-altitude grasslands of Inner Mongolia, where temperatures can plummet to -30°C, the Capra hircus goat grows its remarkable fleece. For centuries, the quality of the resulting cashmere has been judged by touch and experience. Today, a more complex system of measurement and certification governs the global trade, though it is one marked by both rigorous standards and surprising ambiguity.

Cashmere quality is a measure of the fineness and length of the wool fibers, or hairs, harvested from the undercoat of a cashmere goat. These fibers are measured in microns (one-millionth of a meter) and millimeters, respectively. The finest, longest fibers produce the softest, most durable yarns, which are then classified into grades—though the specifics of this grading can be inconsistent across the industry.

The Science of Softness: Micron Counts and Fiber Length

The primary determinant of cashmere quality is the diameter of the individual fibers, measured in microns. For a fiber to be legally considered cashmere in the United States, it must be 19 microns or less in diameter. However, within this range, a distinct hierarchy of quality exists:

• Grade A: The highest quality cashmere, with a micron count typically between 14 and 15.5. These fibers are the longest, resulting in yarns that are strong, resistant to pilling, and exceptionally soft.
• Grade B: With a micron count of 16 to 18, Grade B cashmere is still of high quality but is less soft and more prone to pilling than Grade A.
• Grade C: The lowest quality grade, with a micron count of 19 or higher. These fibers are shorter and coarser, resulting in a less luxurious feel and a greater tendency to pill.

Fiber length is also a critical factor. Longer fibers can be spun into finer, stronger yarns that are less likely to break or pill. The ideal length for high-quality cashmere is at least 36mm. The combination of a low micron count and long fiber length is the hallmark of the most sought-after cashmere in the world.

A Question of Grades: The Unofficial Standard

While the A, B, and C grading system is widely used within the industry, it is important to note that it is not a globally enforced or standardized system. As some industry experts point out, laboratories do not test for "Grade A" certification. Rather, these grades are an internal classification system used by mills and manufacturers to categorize their products. This lack of a universal standard can create confusion for consumers, making it all the more important to understand the underlying metrics of micron count and fiber length. For those interested in the broader context of natural fibers, our guide to wool offers a comparative perspective.

Beyond the Fiber: The Role of Certification

In recent years, the focus on sustainability and ethical sourcing has led to the development of new certification standards for cashmere. These standards aim to ensure the welfare of the cashmere goats, the protection of the environment, and the fair treatment of the herders who are the custodians of this ancient tradition. Two of the most prominent standards are:

• The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS): Developed by the Aid by Trade Foundation, the GCS is an independent standard for sustainable cashmere. It focuses on animal welfare, environmental protection, and social criteria for the herders.
• The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) Animal Fibre Standard: The SFA standard provides a framework for responsible cashmere production at the herder level. It addresses animal welfare, land management, and fiber quality.

These certifications provide a layer of assurance for consumers who are concerned about the provenance of their cashmere. They represent a move towards a more transparent and responsible supply chain, from the high plains of Mongolia to the finished garment. The principles of responsible sourcing are central to our own Craft Philosophy.

Conclusion: An Enduring Allure

The world of cashmere is one of both timeless allure and modern complexity. While the traditional measures of quality—softness, warmth, and lightness—remain paramount, a deeper understanding of micron counts, fiber lengths, and the nuances of grading and certification can provide a new layer of appreciation for this remarkable material. As the industry continues to evolve, what new standards of quality and sustainability will emerge to shape the future of cashmere?

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best grade of cashmere?

Grade A is considered the highest quality cashmere. It is characterized by the finest and longest fibers, typically 14-15.5 microns in diameter and at least 36mm long. This results in a yarn that is exceptionally soft, strong, and resistant to pilling.

How can you tell if cashmere is real?

Authentic, high-quality cashmere has a smooth, soft feel and should not be itchy. A simple test is to rub the surface of the garment; if it begins to pill immediately, it may be a sign of lower-quality, shorter fibers. The price is also often an indicator, as true cashmere is a luxury material.

What is a micron in cashmere?

A micron is a unit of measurement equal to one-millionth of a meter. It is used to measure the diameter of individual cashmere fibers. The lower the micron count, the finer and softer the fiber.