Genuine Cashmere: Your Complete Testing Guide

How to Identify Genuine Cashmere — A Buyer's Complete Testing Guide

Cashmere is a material prized for its exceptional softness, warmth, and lightweight feel. Sourced from the fine undercoat of the Cashmere goat (Capra hircus laniger), this fiber has been a hallmark of understated quality for centuries. However, its high demand and relative scarcity have given rise to a market where imitations and inferior blends are common. For the discerning buyer, the ability to distinguish authentic cashmere from counterfeit is an essential skill. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of the tests and knowledge required to identify genuine cashmere, ensuring that your investment is in a product of true and lasting quality.

Understanding Cashmere Fiber Characteristics

The fundamental properties of cashmere are rooted in the unique characteristics of its fibers. A thorough understanding of these characteristics is the first step in learning to identify the genuine article.

Fiber Diameter, Length, and Quality

The diameter of a cashmere fiber, measured in microns, is the primary determinant of its quality. The lower the micron count, the finer and softer the fiber. According to the U.S. Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, for a product to be legally labeled as "cashmere," the average fiber diameter must not exceed 19 microns [1].

Cashmere is typically categorized into three grades:

• Grade A: The highest quality, with a diameter of 14 to 15.5 microns and a length of 34 to 36 mm.
• Grade B: A medium-grade cashmere, with a fiber diameter ranging from 16 to 18 microns.
• Grade C: The lowest quality of cashmere, with a fiber diameter of around 19 microns.

Longer fibers can be spun into a stronger, more resilient yarn, which results in a garment that is less likely to break or pill. The exceptional softness and insulating properties of cashmere are due to the natural crimp of its fibers. This three-dimensional waviness creates millions of tiny air pockets within the yarn, which trap heat and provide warmth without adding weight. The surface of a cashmere fiber is covered in microscopic scales that are smoother and less pronounced than those found on sheep's wool, which is why cashmere feels so soft against the skin.

Manual Tests for Authenticating Cashmere

While laboratory analysis provides the most definitive identification of cashmere, several manual tests can be performed to assess the authenticity of a product.

The Burn Test

The burn test is a reliable method for distinguishing natural fibers from synthetics. To perform this test, carefully extract a few fibers from an inconspicuous area of the garment. Genuine cashmere, being a protein fiber, will smolder and curl away from the flame, self-extinguish when the flame is removed, and produce the smell of burning hair. The resulting ash will be a fine, black powder. In contrast, synthetic fibers will melt and form a hard, black bead, while producing a chemical odor.

The Feel Test

Genuine cashmere should feel soft and buttery, with a slight loftiness. It should not feel overly smooth or slippery, which can be a sign of a synthetic blend or a chemical treatment. Run the fabric over a sensitive area of your skin; genuine cashmere will feel warm and pleasant, without any scratchiness.

The Stretch Test

Genuine, high-quality cashmere will stretch out and then spring back to its original shape when released. This is due to the natural elasticity of the fibers. Lower-quality fibers or blends will not have the same resilience and may remain stretched out.

Visual Inspection

Genuine cashmere has a matte appearance, with a subtle halo of fine fibers on the surface. This halo, known as pilling, is a natural characteristic of cashmere. While excessive pilling can be a sign of shorter, lower-quality fibers, a complete lack of pilling can be a red flag, suggesting a synthetic blend. Counterfeit cashmere often has an artificial sheen or a flat, lifeless appearance.

Decoding Labels and Certifications

Labels and certifications provide valuable information about a product's fiber content and the standards under which it was produced.

How to Read Cashmere Labels

According to the U.S. Wool Products Labeling Act, a product can only be labeled as "100% Cashmere" if it meets the legal definition of the fiber [1]. Be wary of vague terms like "Cashmere Blend" or "Cashmere Feel." If a product is a blend, the label must state the percentage of each fiber present.

Common Adulteration Methods

Cashmere is often blended with cheaper fibers to reduce costs. Common adulterants include sheep's wool, yak wool, and synthetics like acrylic and polyester. Adulteration results in a product of inferior quality, lacking the softness, warmth, and durability of genuine cashmere.

Reputable Cashmere Certifications

Several independent organizations have developed certification standards to promote the ethical and sustainable production of cashmere.

• The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS): An independent standard for sustainable cashmere that is committed to animal welfare, the protection of the environment, and the social and economic well-being of cashmere farmers [2].
• The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA): A non-profit organization that works to promote global sustainability standards for cashmere production, ensuring that it is produced in a way that minimizes environmental impact and safeguards herder livelihoods [3].

A Step-by-Step Authentication Checklist

1. Examine the label: Look for "100% Cashmere."
2. Perform the feel test: The fabric should be soft and buttery.
3. Conduct a visual inspection: Look for a matte appearance and a slight halo.
4. Try the stretch test: The fabric should stretch and return to its original shape.
5. If possible, perform the burn test: This is the most definitive test.
6. Check for certifications: Look for the GCS or SFA logos.
7. Consider the price: If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the difference between cashmere and pashmina?

Pashmina is a type of fine cashmere from the Changthangi goat in the Himalayas. While all pashmina is cashmere, not all cashmere is pashmina.

Why does cashmere pill?

Pilling is a natural characteristic of cashmere caused by the rubbing of fine fibers. While excessive pilling can indicate lower-quality fibers, some pilling is normal.

How should I care for my cashmere garments?

Hand-wash in cold water with a mild detergent or dry-clean. Lay flat to dry.

Published by SELVANE Knowledge — Material intelligence for considered wardrobes.

References

[1] Federal Trade Commission. (2014). Cachet of Cashmere: Complying with the Wool Products Labeling Act. Retrieved from https://www.ftc.gov/business-guidance/resources/cachet-cashmere-complying-wool-products-labeling-act

[2] The Good Cashmere Standard. (n.d.). The Standard. Retrieved from https://thegoodcashmerestandard.org/

[3] Sustainable Fibre Alliance. (n.d.). About Us. Retrieved from https://www.sustainablefibre.org/

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