From the Gobi to the Garment: How Alxa, Inner Mongolia Cashmere Is Harvested and Graded

The journey of Alxa, Inner Mongolian cashmere from a goat's undercoat to a finished garment is a meticulous, multi-stage process rooted in centuries of tradition and refined by modern technology. The transformation involves a precise sequence of harvesting, sorting, cleaning, and spinning, with each step critically impacting the final quality of the fiber. This complex procedure, which can be broken down into approximately 14 distinct stages, begins with the annual combing of cashmere goats in the spring and concludes with the creation of fine yarn, ready for knitting. Throughout this journey, the raw fiber undergoes significant refinement, resulting in a substantial reduction in volume but a dramatic increase in value, with initial yields of raw fleece being progressively reduced to a fraction of their original weight in the form of pure, luxurious cashmere.

The Art and Science of Cashmere Harvesting

The harvesting of cashmere is a delicate and time-sensitive process that requires a deep understanding of the goats and their natural cycles. The quality of the final product is heavily dependent on the skill and care taken during this initial stage.

The Annual Cycle: Timing the Harvest

Cashmere goats grow a thick, downy undercoat to protect them from the harsh winters of the Alxa, Inner Mongolian plateau. As the weather warms in the spring, the goats naturally begin to shed this undercoat. This is the optimal time for harvesting, as the fibers are at their longest and most refined. The window for harvesting is relatively short, typically lasting only a few weeks from late spring to early summer. If the fibers are harvested too early, they will be too short; if they are harvested too late, the goats will have already shed most of their precious undercoat.

Hand-Combing: The Traditional Method

The traditional and most widely used method for harvesting cashmere is hand-combing. Herders use a specialized long-tined comb to gently remove the undercoat from the goat's body. This is a labor-intensive process that requires great skill and patience. A single goat can take up to two weeks to comb completely. However, hand-combing is the preferred method because it is the most gentle on the goats and it yields the highest quality fibers. By combing the goats, the herders are able to selectively remove the fine undercoat while leaving the coarse guard hairs behind.

Shearing: A Modern Alternative

In some regions, shearing has been adopted as a more modern and efficient method for harvesting cashmere. Shearing is much faster than combing, but it also has its drawbacks. When a goat is sheared, both the fine undercoat and the coarse guard hairs are removed together. This means that the fleece must undergo a more intensive dehairing process to separate the two types of fibers. Shearing can also be more stressful for the goats than combing.

Yields and Quality: The First Selection

A single cashmere goat produces a surprisingly small amount of usable fiber each year. The average yield is between 150 and 200 grams of raw fleece. After the dehairing process, this will be reduced to as little as 100 grams of pure cashmere. The quality of the cashmere is determined by its fineness, length, and color. The softest and most valuable cashmere comes from the neck and underbelly of the goat. The fibers from these areas are the longest, softest, and whitest.

Sorting and Grading: The Human Touch

Once the raw fleece has been harvested, it is carefully sorted and graded by hand. This is a critical step that requires a trained eye and a sensitive touch. The sorters separate the fleece based on its quality, taking into account the fineness, length, and color of the fibers. The whitest and longest fibers are the most valuable, as they can be dyed to any color and are the easiest to spin into a fine yarn.

The Sorting Process: A Matter of Feel

The sorting process is done entirely by hand. Sorters sit at large tables and work their way through piles of raw fleece. They use their hands to feel the texture of the fibers, separating the soft undercoat from the coarse guard hairs. They also remove any impurities that may have been missed during the initial combing, such as dirt, vegetation, and other foreign matter. This is a slow and painstaking process, but it is essential for ensuring the quality of the final product.

Grading by Quality: The Three Tiers

After the fleece has been sorted, it is graded into three main categories:

• Grade A: This is the highest quality cashmere. The fibers are long, fine, and white. Grade A cashmere is used to make the most luxurious and expensive garments.
• Grade B: This is a medium-quality cashmere. The fibers are shorter and slightly coarser than Grade A cashmere. Grade B cashmere is often used to make knitwear and other garments that do not require the same level of fineness as Grade A products.
• Grade C: This is the lowest quality cashmere. The fibers are short, coarse, and often have a yellowish tint. Grade C cashmere is typically used to make blankets, carpets, and other non-apparel items.

The 14-Step Journey of Cashmere: A Detailed Analysis

The production of cashmere is a lengthy and intricate process, a testament to the material's value. The following is a detailed exploration of the 14 key stages, from the initial harvest to the final yarn, including insights into the timeframes and yield rates that define this remarkable transformation.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Why is cashmere so expensive?

Cashmere's high price is a result of its rarity and the labor-intensive process required to produce it. A single cashmere goat produces only a small amount of usable fiber each year, and the process of transforming that fiber into a finished garment is long and complex.

2. What is the difference between cashmere and wool?

Cashmere and wool are both natural fibers, but they come from different animals. Cashmere comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goat, while wool comes from sheep. Cashmere is significantly softer, lighter, and warmer than wool.

3. How can I tell if a garment is made from high-quality cashmere?

High-quality cashmere should be soft, lofty, and have a slight sheen. It should also be free of any coarse guard hairs. When you run your hand over the surface of the garment, it should feel smooth and luxurious.

References

^[1] McGregor, B. A., & Butler, K. L. (2008). Determinants of cashmere production: The contribution of fleece measurements and animal growth on farms. Small Ruminant Research, 78(1-3), 96-105.

^[2] The State of Cashmere. (2023). Retrieved from https://statecashmere.com/blogs/news/from-goat-to-garment-the-intricate-process-of-cashmere-production

^[3] GOBI Cashmere. (n.d.). The Art of Cashmere Production. Retrieved from https://www.gobicashmere.com/us/blogs/the-art-of-cashmere-Production/

Author Bio

The author is a material science writer for SELVANE, specializing in the study of luxury fibers.

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